![]() Today, I’m going just to grab a takeaway coffee from the lovely cafe Quppa before continuing on. Personally, my favorite spot is BeerHall, a huge hall full of beer and street food stands that just calls to my inner teenager. but what makes it special now is that some of the best nightlife in the city is now here, making the street packed with a host of fashionable youth. ![]() You can find art galleries, a hotel, pubs, restaurants, a diner. ![]() Now, after the buildings were restored in 2008, the area has become one of Istanbul’s most hip neighborhoods. When I was a child these rowhouses were in a state of ruin, and I remember being a tad spooked by them. They were a sign of modernity and Westernization with their brick facades and apartment lifestyle. “Akaretler” are a series of terraced houses built in the 19th century as government-owned rental properties for the upper-middle class. I’ve written a bit about Akaretler before when talking about the amazing life of President Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, who lived on this street for a period. I like an adventure, but safety comes first! Nightlife in AkaretlerĪfter a relaxed breakfast, I head to Akaretler. Somehow, in the period of a year or so, Beşiktaş has become one of the busiest hang-out spots in Istanbul. In fact, I stay far, far away from Beşiktaş during the evenings and the weekends. Just be careful – it can get very busy, so if you’re worried about COVID-19 you should try to avoid certain times. You can expect to pay something between TL 50 to TL 80 ($4-$7) for two people, depending on the eatery you choose. Çelebi Oğlu Street is a great place to meet if you want a relaxed, informal breakfast with friends. I counted almost 20 different eateries, but maybe I’m a bit off. The street is full to the brim with restaurants serving Turkish-style breakfast and little else, from early morning to night. Çelebi Oğlu Street, known informally as “Kahvaltıcılar Sokağı” (literally “Breakfast-shops Street”) is the best place in Istanbul to experience that kind of atmosphere. We Turks love to have breakfast with a view of the Bosporus, but I find the view of a hustling and bustling street brings a completely different atmosphere to the experience. I wouldn’t change it for anything! Breakfast Street The illogical layout of the neighborhood, the ever-changing storefronts, and the unending crowd of people flowing through the streets. I was raised in Teşvikiye, Beşiktaş, and it was in this neighborhood where I learned to head out by myself and discover new sights. But for me, the chaos of Beşiktaş is where I learned to love the city. My mother’s generation laments the Istanbul of today and frequently tells me of the beauty of the Istanbul of their childhood.
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